The camps for and against the possible benefits of organic food are now diametrically opposed and it may soon be carrots at dawn. On one side is Sir John Krebs, chairman of the food standards agency, who says: "The current scientific evidence does not show that organic food is any safer or more nutritious than conventionally produced food." On the other side stands the Soil Association, which maintains: "Collectively, the evidence supports the hypothesis that organically grown crops are significantly different in terms of food safety, nutritional content and nutritional value."
So what is the consumer to do? After all, organic food can be up to 40% more expensive, according to the consumer magazine Which?, so is it worth the extra money? And if you can afford only some organic food, what should you be buying?
There are various reasons to choose organic food, among them animal welfare, environmental considerations and flavour. But if you are concerned chiefly about health, the argument rages over three things: pesticides, additives and antibiotics. Much smaller amounts of all of them are used in the production of organic food. In addition, some studies suggest it may have higher nutritional values. The Soil Association, the campaigning and certification body, is in the process of reviewing all the evidence to try to prove the case.
It is a very complicated subject. "There are very big issues here, and it shouldn't be down to individual consumers to make these decisions," says Professor Andrew Watterson of Stirling University's public health research group. "I think it's a public health issue and there should be a comprehensive environmental health impact assessment."
In the meantime, however, you have to eat something. Perhaps the strongest case in favour of eating organic food is for pregnant women, babies and children. The current research suggests that combinations of pesticides - the so-called cocktail effect - may harm babies' development. "I don't think you could say that the pesticide levels in food would, necessarily, have too low a level to cause an effect in combination," says Janie Axelrad, a research fellow at Liverpool University, who did the research.
But Dr Ian Brown, chair of the Pesticide Residues Committee (PRC) which tests residues in food says, "a working party looked at hundreds of studies and concluded the levels of residue were so tiny that there was no interaction unless the same class of pesticides were involved. Then it became more worrying. That is being looked at now."
Confused? It doesn't get any clearer. The legal limit for pesticide residue in all commercial baby food is so low that it is virtually zero. But fresh fruit and vegetables given to infants don't have to meet similar standards - and 25% to 30% of food contains pesticide residues. The amounts are tiny, and only 1.5% of residues exceed the legal limit. But at least once a quarter, the PRC finds residue levels that are high enough to cause concern. "It is confusing for parents," admits Brown, who does eats organic food but only if it is cheaper.
Nevertheless, he says it would be tragic if people were put off eating fruit and vegetables if they couldn't afford organic ones, as the benefits in terms of cancer prevention far outweigh any pesticide residue risk.
Fruit
Apples
Cox's apples may be sprayed 16 times with 36 different chemicals, according to a 1998 government report. In tests last year, 37% were found to have residues and 15% multiple residues. The PRC said there was no concern for consumer health, but since organic food contains almost no residues, parents may prefer to act on the safe side, and choose organic for children.
Verdict: Buy organic if possible
Soft Fruit
Some soft fruits have 10-12 post-harvest treatments for cosmetic purposes, according to Dr Vyvyan Howard, a toxico-pathologist at Liverpool University, and last year 23% of apricots were found to have multiple residues. In view of the cocktail effect, parents may prefer organic soft fruit for babies.
Verdict: Buy organic
Oranges
Because pesticide residues tend to concentrate in the skin, oranges are not peeled when tested. Last year, 93% were found to have residues and 51% had multiple residues. If you are using the zest, and want to avoid residue, choose organic.
Verdict: Buy organic
Strawberries
Strawberries are high in vitamin C but according to a survey by Maff in 2000, receive a fair old dousing of pesticides - on average 12, including six fungicide sprays and three herbicide applications. Tested in 2001, residues were found in 64% of samples. This is down from a whopping 80% in 1999, but four samples exceeded legal limits. The PRC said there was no concern for health, but choose organic if you want your strawberries and cream residue-free.
Verdict: Buy organic
Peaches
Last year, the residue alert was sounded on peaches and nectarines when safety margins on French peaches were found to have been "significantly eroded". The PRC played down any adverse health effects, but is monitoring the fruit throughout 2003. The most recent tests were in May and they were found to be pesticide free.
Verdict: Non organic is probably safe
Bananas
Last year 33% bananas were found to have residues an 21% multiple residues. If you want to avoid them - especially for babies - go for organic instead.
Verdict: Buy organic
Vegetables
Spinach
Popeye's vitamin-rich favourite was in trouble last year. Pesticide residues exceeded legal and safety limits and the PRC said "the safety margins would have been significantly eroded". Symptoms could include "increased salivation, upset stomach, or mild headache" but "would be shortlived".
Verdict: Buy organic
Carrots
Following an EU warning that carrots with their tops on had unacceptably high levels of the pesticide chlormequat, a quick response survey was carried out last year. The results were "reassuring" but only eight bunches of carrots were tested, half of which were organic. "I wouldn't give a non-organic carrot to children, just in case," says researcher Janie Axelrad. "I think potatoes and carrots are worst for pesticide residues."
Verdict: Buy organic
Lettuce
Bugs are partial to lettuce and there have been instances of misuse of pesticides on the crop. In the first quarter of last year, residues were found in 50% of samples, multiple residues in 36%, 3% exceeded the legal limit and 3% contained a banned pesticide. Along wiith carrots and strawberries, lettuce is one of the top three organic preferences that James Cleeton, policy project co-ordinator for the Soil Association, would make.
Verdict: Definitely buy organic
Potatoes
The spud had a long rap sheet last year. Of the samples tested, 39% had residues, 7.4% had multiple residues, 1.2% exceeded the legal residue limit, 2.5% had residues of a banned pesticide, tecnazene. In addition, the PRC said in baked potatoes the levels of chlorpropham "could result in exceedance of the ArfD (acute reference dose). On balance, organic seems wise.
Verdict: Buy organic if possible
Leeks
In tests last year, leeks were found to be residue free. Residue levels were also very low in aubergines (with no multiple residues) and sweet peppers, which had previous shown levels "which might cause potential concern for consumers".
Verdict: Non-organic is fine
Processed food
Ambrosia creamed rice
Organic doesn't necessarily mean better, purer or healthier and with processed food, it is always worth reading the label. The organic version of Ambrosia creamed rice has twice the fat (3.7g compared with 1.9g per 100g) and twice the saturated fat (2.2g compared with 1.1g per 100g) of the non-organic version.
Verdict: Non-organic is healthier
Digestive biscuits
Another instance where you have to check the small print. Dove's Farm organic biscuits have more sugar (18.1g compared with 16.9 per 100g) but less saturated fat (7.2g compard with 10g per 100g) than McVitie's Original Digestives.
Verdict: Non-organic may be healthier
Shortbread
Sainsbury's Organic Highland Shortbread Fingers have considerably less sugar (15.8g compared with 23.2g per 100g) but slightly more saturated fat (18.2g compared with 17.6g per 100g) than its Taste the Difference Farmhouse Shortbread Fingers.
Verdict: Organic may be healthier
Baked beans
Tested last year because of their popularity with children, none (including five organic samples) had pesticide residues. The sugar and salt content is therefore more of an issue than whether or not they are organic.
Verdict: Non-organic is fine
Chocolate
Chocolate is relatively cheap because the bugs that could ruin cocoa plantations are controlled by a hormone-disrupting pesticide called lindane. It is banned in Europe but last year residues were found in 10% of samples of imported white chocolate. The PRC said, "We have often found lindane in chocolate products before, so these latest results aren't unusual." Which? concludes that: "There are good reasons for swapping to organic versions".
Verdict: Buy organic
Processed meat
Organic products are not additive-free and some additives used are controversial. According to Which?, "Sodium nitrate, a preservative also used in conventional meat product which has been linked to cancer is approved".
Verdict: No need to go organic
Drinks
Fizzy drinks
Most children's favourite beverage, but not worth the organic premium according to Which?. They may contain fewer additives, but "you're mainly paying for water which isn't organic" and it sees "little benefit in swapping".
Verdict: No gain in buying organic
Juice
A study of 39 pre-school children in America found that those who consumed organic juice, fruits and vegetables had significantly lower exposure to organophosphorus pesticide residue which might be linked to neurological problems. But Which? reckons the organic content in juice drinks "can be so minimal it doesn't seem worth paying a premium for them". Last year, no residues were found in blackcurrant juice.
Verdict: Non-organic is a good buy
Orange juice
Oranges grown for juicing don't have to meet the same high aesthetic standards as their grown-for-eating cousins. They are therefore less blitzed by the spray-wielders and contain fewer residues as a result. Of 71 samples tested in 2001, none were found to have residues. Save your money and buy non-organic if residues are your chief concern.
Verdict: Non-organic is fine
Cow's milk
Residues of a now-banned insecticide, lindane, which has been linked with lowered male fertility and breast cancer, was found in milk in 2001. But last year it was found to be residue free, so there seems no reason to switch on health grounds.
Verdict: Non-organic is fine
Yoghurt
Tested in 2001 and in 1997 no residues were found in either the organic or non-organic samples. A small sample of fromage frais tested in 2001 was also residue-free.
Verdict: Non-organic is fine
Beer
The average pint receives a heady mix of pesticides. The winter barley used to make beer is likely to be sprayed with two fungicides, two herbicides a growth regulator spray and some insecticides. According to the Soil Association, hops receive 12-14 annual sprays with an average of 15 chemical products. Tested in 1999, 35% contained pesticide residues.
Verdict: Buy organic
Meat
Pork
There is growing concern about the use of antibiotics in non-organically reared animals because some bacteria are becoming resistant. Also, some of the antibiotics used on farms are similar to those used to treat humans. According to the Soil Association, "it means some infections which pass from animals to humans are now impossible to treat". The biggest problems occur with intensively produced livestock such as pigs and chickens.
Verdict: Organic is probably healthier
Lamb
Finding 43% of lamb samples contained residues of DDT last year was "a little unusual", said the PRC. DDT is a cheap, banned insecticide and possible human carcinogen but it persists in the environment and even going organic doesn't totally avoid it - one organic sample also contained DDT. But the survey said the levels were "very low environmental contamination levels and are not of concern for consumer health".
Verdict: Organic may be healthier
Beef
"BSE has been found in organic herds," says Which? "The Soil Association says that the cases occurred in herds that had recently converted to organic and animals were exposed to BSE before they entered the organic system. They weren't sold as organic meat."
Verdict: Organic not essential
Chicken
Last November government-sponsored research for the food standards agency found free range and organic chickens twice as likely as battery hens to carry campylobacter, the single biggest cause of food poisoning. The findings were preliminary and the bug is killed by cooking. Some antibiotic concerns with non-organic.
Verdict: Jury still out
Eggs
According to Richard Young, an organic farmer who also works for the Soil Association, a legal loophole means that a banned, highly toxic drug, which has caused accidental poisoning in animals, is turning up in "3% of eggs, a small percentage of chickens and a high percentage of quail meat and eggs. The levels are probably only a 50th or a100th of the levels that have killed animals. Nevertheless, they have never been tested on humans and it's possible children may be particular sensitive."
Verdict: Organic may be safer
