New tools such as lasers are changing the whole approach of cosmetic surgery and enticing more and more of us to to consider treating ourselves to the relatively minor surgery they offer.

In 1995, at least 65,000 people in the UK had a nip, tuck, lift or other surgical enhancement to their appearance. Some 90 per cent of procedures were to reverse signs of ageing - and 90 per cent were requested by women. But interest among men is also growing. US plastic surgeon Patrick Hudson says American men are increasingly asking for cosmetic surgery because they feel that looking older in the business world makes them seem less up-to-date and efficient. And when it comes to cosmetic surgery, where the US leads, the UK follows.

There is a wide range of new techniques in cosmetic surgery which aim to give a more natural appearance with less risk of surgical damage, according to Gilbert Nolst Trenite, president of the European Academy of Facial Plastic Surgery. Keyhole surgery for facelifts, including liposuction of the face and the new super-pulse carbon dioxide lasers to remove blemishes and wrinkles of the skin, especially around the eyes. And nose reshaping is no longer about building an ideal shape, but rather about destroying unsightly bumps.

Tissue engineering, to grow new cartilage and skin cells from tiny samples, is already possible and its use in cosmetic surgery is bound to develop, so that in future you will be able to use your own cells to make changes, without having to have large chunks of skin or cartilage removed. The next millennium may even see the ability to grow spare parts of yourself, such as the cartilage of your nose to a predetermined shape, from basic cells (stem cells) with the help of chemicals known as tissue growth factors. Trenite also predicts further use of 3D imaging on the computer to plan surgery, and the use of computer assisted surgery to achieve the desired results.

Lasers offer the opportunity to treat minor 'imperfections' without the need for big, frightening operations. Mike Dilkes, laser surgeon at BUPA's Bushey Hospital in Hertfordshire, says the laser offers a wide range of procedures: 'I use the laser to vaporise away brown sunspots on the face. It's painless, doesn't cause scarring and is very successful. Moles can be flattened so they're no longer visible.' The laser works by burning the outermost layers of the skin which then grows back looking, says Dilkes, 'better than ever'. Initially, the skin looks red. After a couple of weeks it turns pink, and then fades back to its normal colour. 'Occasionally,' says Dilkes, 'the new skin colour is either lighter or darker than usual and may take up to a year to return to its normal colour - though you can usually cover it with foundation.' Laser is also replacing older techniques, such as chemical face peels which use acid solutions to burn away the damaged layer of skin, or dermabrasion which uses whirling brushes to 'sand' it away. Laser skin resurfacing is now considered a safer way to remove the top layers of skin and allow new skin to grow without the scars, wrinkles and lines.

Hair removal is another area fast being taken over by the laser. It works by making each hair a fibre optic to transmit the laser energy to the hair follicle. For most people, the procedure appears to last for a maximum of two years, a lot longer than waxing or electrolysis. It works best in fair-skinned people with dark hair.

While cosmetic surgery techniques are being improved all the time, so too are pharmaceutical products which may prove a more popular option than surgery if they work well. 'The drug finasteride,' says Dave Williams, editor of Body Language, a new independent magazine aimed at providing information to those considering cosmetic surgery, 'is currently used in the UK to treat enlarged prostates. It has been licensed in the US as a treatment for male hair loss since December 1997, and is due to be licensed for use in the UK soon.

It's much more effective than previous drug treatments, and may make hair transplantation a thing of the past.' Men tend to go for the same procedures as women, namely liposuction, face lifts, eyelid tightening, breast reduction and nose jobs. The procedures are the same but there are technical differences because men's skin is thicker and hairier, and therefore has a greater blood supply. This results in a greater risk of bleeding, but better healing. Operations that are specific to men are penile enlargement and hair transplantation. But men do tend to be harder to please, with more being less happy with the results of surgery than women, according to Hudson.

Whether you're considering minor laser work on a couple of moles or major liposuction or nose-reshaping, the most important decision you'll make is who you are going to trust to do it. As yet this burgeoning industry is totally unregulated. 'Operating on a dog without proper veterinary qualifications is illegal,' says Mike Barrett, representative of the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS) which runs a register of fully trained, experienced cosmetic surgeons. 'But anyone at all can operate on a human being if that person asks you to. You only break the law if you claim to be a doctor or surgeon when you're not.' Many clinics advertise that all their surgeons are FRCS - Fellows of the Royal College of Surgeons - having passed postgraduate surgical exams. But Dilkes points out: 'FRCS is all very well, but a surgeon may have spent the last 15 years operating on piles - you wouldn't necessarily want him to do your facelift.' New techniques or old, it seems the most important thing is to check that the person using them is well-trained and experienced.

• Ann Robinson's book, The Which? Guide to Women's Health, contains more information about cosmetic surgery and other aspects of women's health. Price £9.99

Face facts: 13 points to check

Questions to ask yourself:

• If I have this done, will I then be happy with my looks?

• Do I know the possible side-effects, risks, recovery time and likelihood of recurrence?

• Do I know the likely result? Have I seen a computer-generated picture of what I should look like afterwards?

• Is the surgeon safe?

• Is the clinic/hospital safe? What happens if there's an emergency - for example, if I start bleeding heavily?

• Can I afford it? Laser removal of a mole costs £200. Facelift: £3-10,000. Nose reshaping: £3-4000. Breast enlargement: £3-4000. Liposuction: £1-5000. Tummy tuck: £3000.

Get the right doc for you

• NHS consultant now or in recent past. Ensures formal training and has been subject to scrutiny of colleagues.

• GMC registered. Phone GMC specialist register hotline on 0171 915 3638 to check credentials.

• Is the surgeon in BAAPS or BAPS (British Association of Plastic Surgeons). Ring BAPS on 0171 405 2234 to find out.

• Ask the surgeon for published figures of the success of his operations and how many of the particular operation he has performed.

• Ask your GP about your suitability for surgery, and for any recommendations of local specialists.

• Get personal recommendations.

• Phone around to compare prices.